Bermondsey, land of contrasts





Bermondsey ain`t Woolwich, although people still get shot here. People in Bermondsey ask if you need directions and if you reply politely they tell you what you need to know. People also ask you for directions.
There are abandoned pubs and railway arches with disturbing murals, and soot highlighted with tufts of quivering pigeon down. The black hole darkness under these arches is a kind of original thick slow murder gloom that still can`t make its escape from Victorian crime scenes.
St James church of 1829 has a peal of 10 bells (that chime the hour 2 minutes early) cast from Napoleon`s cannon at Waterloo, and a spire bootlegged from Wren`s St Stephen`s Walbrook. It has the best golden dragon weathervane you will see anywhere. When this was craned onto the spire the famous clown Joey Grimaldi rode it to the top. This story, however, might be an Ackroydism. Tell me if I`m wrong.

On Jamaica road you can spend loads at the charity shop or get a haircut next door. There are real pubs, like the St James` tavern, and not so real pubs like The Gregorian. Bermondsey is not Woolwich, and that`s fine by me.




